September 2003 Archives

David Wheatley

Sep 1, 03 - 12:47 PM

HISS Key replacement

Hi Folks

I lost one of my keys whilst riding my other bike and ordered a new key from the main dealers. £6.50 they told me - be here in a couple of weeks.
Two days later got a phone call to say "key was ready" and when I collected it, I found it wasn't a HISS key even though I specified HISS key for the ignition.
Two weeks later got another phone call "Key ready for collection", this time it was the correct key. £22.50 plus £6.50 for 'key cutting' + VAT=£34.08.
I was then informed that it will now need programming. Went over to the service bay and they said they could not do it before September 18th and would I like to book it in for minimum of one hours work. I casually asked "How much?" and service chappy stated it will cost me £$40.00 +VAT (minimum of 1 hours labour!! = £47.00).
Therefore a HISS key costs just over £81.00

Does anyone know how to program a new HISS key?

< regards > David Email: 100557.2225@compuserve.com

Jock

Sep 1st, 2003 - 3:13 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

I got a new key about six months ago - £22.50 for the key, dealer told me to take it to a local locksmith (because my original was "slightly bent.")

They charged £1.50 for making the copy, then I took it back to the dealer for programming - it took them about 5 minutes and they did it there and then, even although they seemed to be quite busy - F.O.C. too!

I was looking through the Haynes manual and although I wasn't particularly looking for HISS programming, there is something in there about it - I'll have a look tonight and see if it's possible to DIY (provided I remember!) Email: John@WilsonJO.Demon.co.uk

David Wheatley

Sep 1st, 2003 - 3:16 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Thanks John - I cannot afford 81 quid

< regards > David Email: 100557.2225@compuserve.com

JohnW

Sep 1st, 2003 - 6:32 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Hi David,
Unfortunately according to the Haynes manual you need Honda Special Tool part no. 07XMZ - MBW0100 to re-programme your keys. It's a wiring loom adapter that plugs into the ignition pulse generator wiring connector. So it looks as though it's got to be a Honda dealer and all the expense that entails.

This should be a lesson to the rest of us to take care of our keys.

JohnW Email: john.whitaker2@ntlworld.com

murray

Sep 1st, 2003 - 6:45 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Also remember that the system will only accept TWO additional keys (in addition to the two originals), after that it's new ECU time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jock

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 10:19 AM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Sorry David, but it looks like JohnW is correct.

I do seem to remember something about HISS on another forum though - I'll stick a post up there and see if I get any sensible answers back. Email: John@WilsonJO.Demon.co.uk

David Wheatley

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 12:50 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Thanks for that John

The Inspection Adaptor (Cable) - Part Number 07XMZ-MBW0100 costs £82.04 + VAT = £96.40 and consists of a lead that connects to the battery via croc clips. "Your havin' a larf" doesn't even come near!!!
This lead has diode protection and the other end plugs into the Sumoto 2-pin plug on the bike (Honda technical QUOTE: "Where one of the two pins is 5 volt +ve"). Therefore the battery voltage has been reduced to 5 volts.
If we are talking of two wires and one is 5 volts positive with respect to something, then it has to be the other pin which will be chassis or 0 volts?
This sounds fairly easy to make using a 7805 chip and a 1N4004 diode plus a couple of resistors or so plus to croc-clips for the battery end. It might even require a heat-sink. Honda Technical were fairly relaxed about telling me the procedure and even went as far as saying that putting a switch in the lead from the battery makes programming easier as the battery voltage has to be turned off momentarily when the HISS light is in its 'Receptive' mode [i.e. flashing]. Total cost of kit shold cost less than a fiver.
The switch saves having to unplug the +ve Sumoto lucar connector on the bike wiring harness.
Anybody got any further thoughts on this one, I am trying to save some money and hopefully develop the skills regarding this problem for future HISS key losers.
Has anyone got the definitive procedure for re-programming a HISS key as I was trying to write down the test procedure as Honda Technical told me what to do.

< regards David in sunny Surrey [RAF Kenley]

Email: 100557.2225@compuserve.com

Jock

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 12:55 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Sound like an easy job to make up the cable, but how about the rest of it?
Sounds like it's a lot less complicated than I'd first thought - I thought there might be software involved, but from what you've said, it's just put the HISS in "receptive mode" and give it the new key.
I'd still like to know a bit more about this "four key" limitation on the ECU though - that one could be a pain in the neck. Email: John@WilsonJO.Demon.co.uk

JohnW

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 5:48 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

Hi All,
It would be great if you could make a wiring loom - I'm afraid my electrical engineering skills only extend to wiring a household plug.

As regards the programming, the Haynes manual goes into detail about how to do it. I can fax a copy to you if you give me a fax number or I can scan it at work and send it via e-mail as a pdf document.
The Haynes manual does mention that up to 4 keys can be programmed. Apparently when you put in the original key and start the re-programming any other keys you may have are cancelled and have to be re-programmed anyway. And yes it does also mention that you have to momentarily discount the positive croc clip - so a switch would be an improvement over the original Honda part!

Good luck

JohnW Email: john.whitaker2@ntlworld.com

Jock

Sep 3rd, 2003 - 10:53 AM

Re: HISS Key replacement

I really must take the time to read the Haynes manual again! (Seems like I skimmed through that bit just to locate the information I was looking for.)

Am I right in assuming it's a "four keys at one time" limit rather than a "four keys and it's new ECU time" then? Email: John@WilsonJO.Demon.co.uk

Peter Kershaw

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 5:54 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

To implement the 4-key limit, they'd have to increment a counter in the key you're programmimng from, then put the maximum count into the copy so you can't copy from that. Or it could be that they just increment the count in the copy, which would only limit the number of generations you can have. And what if you have both originals? Can you make 4 copies from each? Makes my head hurt.
I'd just find somewhere like Jock's place - they can't all be rip-off merchants. Email: peterskershaw@hotmail.com

Peter Kershaw

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 5:58 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

The post above arrived while I was typing mine, so feel free to ignore and/or call me a rude name

Email: peterskershaw@hotmail.com

murray

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 6:29 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

I'd be very interested in the programming procedure. Please put me down for a copy

If it's simply a case of providing a 5V
supply, you can get all the necessary bits from Maplins or RS or Farnell for pennies; 5V voltage regulators are VERY common components, just need a couple of capacitors (tantalum are recommended)between in/gnd and out/gnd, and a diode&switch in the supply, and maybe a suitable resistor across the output just to load it a bit. Stick it all in a plastic box with a couple of leads&clips, I'd say a fiver in all.
I recently did a very similar job for a car engine ECU/system checker, and a pressure transducer running off a 10V reg. Email: murray.betts@ntlworld.com

Bill Cole

Sep 3rd, 2003 - 2:44 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

As I understand it the keys are not reprogrammed, the ignition is. Each key has its own, permanent, electronic identity number, and the ignition on the bike is programable with a list of up to four numbers to accept, so I think the limit of four keys is four at any one time, not four in the whole lifetime of the bike, although I only have three so can't be sure. You do have to program for all the keys each time you add one, otherwise the others stop working.
Bill Email: bill.cole@bbc.co.uk

JohnW

Sep 3rd, 2003 - 7:25 PM

Re: HISS Key replacement

That makes sense Bill because the Haynes manual says that when you start re-programming all other keys are cancelled. So in effect your are starting with a clean slate and no.1 key on the list is the one you have in the ignition to start the process over again - so you have to re-write the keys' identities back to the ignition module.

JohnW Email: john.whitaker2@ntlworld.com

SteveA

Sep 10, 03 - 10:10 AM

More on H.I.S.S

browsing the Honda Owners Help page, I came across this. Don't understand the last bit, but it could help if the key has snapped.

Steve

"Hi all, in the past I asked how close the key has to be to the ignition to work but no-one knew. Well;-
I had a plain key made to find out, the chipped key has to be right next to the ignition to activate the HISS system but once started you can take it away and the bike keeps running.
This could be useful in cities where bike-jacking has been reported. Just hit the kill switch if you get stopped then plead ignorance when it won't re-start! Result - you keep your bike." Email: stephen.adcock@ntlworld.com

Jock

Sep 10th, 2003 - 11:11 AM

Re: More on H.I.S.S

I suppose it's also a good idea for those of us whose key has broken (or in the case of mine, the second key was bent and cracked when I got the bike.)
Get a key cut in your local Timpsons or the like, and use the old fob as security - good idea - thanks for that - I'd never have thought of it myself. Email: John@WilsonJO.Demon.co.uk

Tom Williams

Sep 10th, 2003 - 6:17 PM

Re: More on H.I.S.S

Hi

Bike Jacking a Deauville???

Tom W. Email: whgcoltd@aol.com

Jock

Sep 11th, 2003 - 1:05 PM

Re: More on H.I.S.S

Well, I think it's a good looking bike - although I wouldn't stoop so low as to nick one though.
Unfortunately, it's more the bits I've had removed off mine by the local kids - if it's removable, they'll remove it - and then just throw it away. Email: John@WilsonJO.Demon.co.uk

SteveA

Sep 11th, 2003 - 1:18 PM

Re: More on H.I.S.S

AHH...BIKEJACKING. Now I understand. Must be my age, or the sheltered life I'm living.

So where is this happening then? Email: stephen.adcock@ntlworld.com

David Wheatley

Sep 11th, 2003 - 1:40 PM

re: Bike-jacking

I thought Bike Jacking was when you wanted to change a wheel or mend a puncture

David Wheatley

Sep 11, 03 - 2:24 PM

Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

I have re-programmed my new HISS key yesterday night in the rain. It took about an hour from start to finish and then the obligatory test drive for another hour or three (that was the fun bit)
Firstly, thanks to all who sent private e-mails and instructions af what to do.
The wiring loom harness that you require will cost about £91 including Vare An' Tare.

[SECRET] Make it your self
It is nothing more than a twin 5 amp cable with a single diode inserted into the negative lead with a female Sumitomo two-pin connector at the wiring-harness end and red and black croc-clips for the battery end. Follow instructions from fiendly e-mails or Haynes manual or Honda technical service on 01753 590510.

Got to get the diode around the right way or it won't work?

Just out of interest, I was told that the Sumitomo plug was located: " . . . down by the fuse box on the off-side and that I would need to remove the tank to get at it properly" said he (one of the mechanics), tapping the small black triangular fuse panel fairing (cover).
YES, I did find a plug in exactly the location specified and when I disconnected the plug and plugged in the new harness there was a loud crack (just like bringing two closed fingers of one hand smartly down on the palm of the other hand - in other words LIKE A DEAD SHORT sort of a noise!!!).
I thought that I was going to at least have to buy a ECU!
Quickly removing the harness I went and explored the DV further and the plug that was required on the bike was nowhere near the location that I had been told by two separate Honda dealer mechanics from two different garages!!!

The plug in question is located ABOVE the top hose inside a large weather boot and below the the lockable front compartment. The Haynes manual states that it is a black plug - MINE WAS WHITE! Beware!
The middle fairing (and Skidmarx O/S lower) has to be removed to access this area.
Note Well:- The Ignition pulse two pin plug has "Yellow" and "Yellow-White" wires associated with it. Anything else and you are dealing with the wrong connector!

As I said; at night, in the rain - one hour start to finish

If you want to make your own harness up for any future use, I will gladly send instructions on the "Special £91 tool".
Now. Does anyone know where to buy the two pin Sumitomo connectors or a supplier dealing with these plugs. Me thinks I might need lots for all the people who want me to make them one. Or can someone post me one? I have plenty of the the female mini-spade terminals.

E-mail me on 100557.2225@compuserve.com

Home: 01342 843 189
Mobile: 07785 985 929

< regards > David Wheatley in rainy Surrey

Voluntary Blood Transfusion Service (Blood runs all night tomorrow night [Friday]) Covering the whole of South-eastern England. Email: david.wheatley@ra.gsi.gov.uk

murray

Sep 11th, 2003 - 5:58 PM

Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

do the sumitomo connectors look anything like any of these??
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/multicon/multicon.html Email: murray.betts@ntlworld.com

JohnW

Sep 11th, 2003 - 9:12 PM

Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

Hi David,

Glad you got it sorted. What about selling on the "expensive" special Honda part for a nominal fee if anyone requires one and we keep a track of it on the site. Then the next person can buy it and sell it on..............?

JohnW Email: john.whitaker2@ntlworld.com

David Wheatley

Sep 12th, 2003 - 12:51 AM

Re: Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

Hi John - Thanks for the suggestion.

I did not buy this tool as I had been quoted £80 odd + VAT (£91.xx)
The 'tool' is basically two straight through wires with a diode protection to make sure that you do not connect it up the wrong way round. One end connects to the battery with croc-clips and the other plugs into the 'male'-pinned wiring harness Sumitomo two-pin plug (wires coloured white and Yellow/white) on the off-side above the radiator top hose.
This harness plug *is* acccessable through the O/S middle fairing vent but a little bit of a fiddle.
Go and have a look in the daylight. You are looking for a Sumitomo plug.
Section 5.7.5 Key Registration Procedure in the Haynes book says a black on but my DV the plug was white! The wires are of the correct colours as mentioned in Haynes Section 9.26 the Ignition Pulse Generator in the top right of diagram Yellow and White.

< regards > David Wheatley [Gatport Airwick]

01342 843 189
07785 985 929 Email: 100557.2225@compuserve.com

David Wheatley

Sep 12th, 2003 - 11:06 AM

re: Sumitomo Connectors

Hi Murray

Nope - I looked at that web site in my search and those low voltage connectors are of the round pin variety.
Sumitomo ones are like long fingered barbed mini-lucars but it is the plastic plug moulding that is the special bit so that you can rely on just pushing together and getting the pos-neg leads the right way round without a bonfire low on the off-side wing!
I am still working on finding a supplier. When I get anywhere I will let Stu know and send a file (pdf) to him including all wiring and plug details to be uploaded onto the main web site
Perhaps we should all do this and each have our own specialism. I'll do the HISS ignition key. SteveA can do the Autocom connector, Mark can do Timeing (sic) Chains . . .

< regards > David at sunny RAF Kenley in Surrey [Home to 615 squadron] Email: david.wheatley@ra.gsi.gov.uk

SteveA

Sep 12th, 2003 - 1:32 PM

re: Sumitomo Connectors

snp "Sumitomo ones are like long fingered barbed mini-lucars but it is the plastic plug moulding that is the special bit so that you can rely on just pushing together and getting the pos-neg leads the right way round"

FWIW, it sounds like an Optimate connector. But I'm sure you and Murray would know what they were

snp "SteveA can do the Autocom connector"

Hey, I've already got a job on't committee Email: stephen.adcock@ntlworld.com

Chris

Sep 11th, 2003 - 9:33 PM

Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

I just wondered exactly what the actual procedure was? I understand that you have to plug this harness into the correct connector, but then what??? I take it that the HISS light on the dash flashes or something and that you have to put the new key in the ignition or something and then momentarily disconnect the harness after each key insertion.

I do not have a Haynes manual do the details of the steps required would be really useful....

Thanks

Chris Email: cnr@themadprofessor.demon.co.uk

David Wheatley

Sep 12th, 2003 - 1:34 AM

Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

Hi Chris - I know how you feel. The procedure sounds quite daunting until you have done it
I suppose it is the same for a brain surgeon, the first time he enters someones head??
The special tool part number 07XMZ-MBW0100 from Honda costs about £91 inc VAT. One end of the tool has croc-clips and the other has a female two-pinned Sumitomo plug.
It is comprised of two wires, positive and negative from the battery and connects to the male-pinned two-pin Sumitomo plug. There is a diode protection in series in the tool.

1) Buy a new HISS key from your favorite Honda dealer.

2) Reach inside the O/S Middle Fairing vent and locate the two-pinned plug located above the radiator top hose (well that is where it is on my DV - 51 reg). It has white and white yellow wires.

3) Disconnect plug and connect tool.

4) Connect other end to battery Red to positive and black to chassis/earth.

5) Turn on ignition using your *good* HISS ignition key. Leave on for at least ten seconds. Green HISS ignition light comes on and stays on. If it doesn't, you've got other problems and it won't just be a re-programming problem.

6) Disconnect Battery positive croc-clip for two seconds.

7) Now reconnect battery positive croc-clip. The HISS light will come on for only two seconds and then go out. It will then start flashing *four times* pause and then flash *four times* repeatedly. This tells you that the system is now in "Key Registration Mode".

*All* keys have now been cancelled (including any you have lost or has been stolen) and will need to be re-programmed. Turn off your ignition and remove key from ignition. Place this key *well away* from ignition and headstock area of DV. In your pocket will do.

9) Insert new HISS key and turn ignition on. HISS green light will come on for two seconds and then flash *four times* pause and then flash *four times* repeatedly. This key is now also registered.

10) Repeat for any other keys you have as they will need to be re-registered up to a maximum of four keys in total at any one time.

11) On completion, turn off ignition remove HISS wiring harness tool and re-fit original harness plug and return any weather proofing gaiters and boots.

12) Go for a jolly nice ride testing out your newly registered keys.

13) Place spare HISS keys in a safe place. Then go for another jolly nice ride

< regards > David [Gatport Airwick]

01342 843 189
07785 985 929

ps: I took off the black fuse panel cover, petrol tank, O/S middle fairing, locking glove-locker and Skidmarx lower fairing because I was told by Honda fitters that I would need to do this to be able to get at the plug. Lots of allen screws of different sizes, two black cap-screws at front of tank (plus washers) and posi-drive screws to loose!!

On completion, found that the plug is fully accessable via the O/S middle fairing vent.
Look at the bunch of wiring loom inside the weather gaiter/boot above the radiator top hose. Email: 100557.2225@compuserve.com

murray

Sep 13th, 2003 - 10:25 PM

Re: Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

found this info; easiest thing might be to give them a ring for outlets? Their website seems to be under construction.

"Kellysearch" for Sumitomo Electrical Wiring systems Europe ltd
Automotive electrical products

Address
Unit1 Woodlands Bus Pk
Ystradgynlais
Swansea
W. Glam
SA9 1FY

Map

Ystradgynlais companies
Telephone, fax and web
Tel: (01639) 842281
Fax: (01639) 849853 Email: murray.betts@ntlworld.com

David Wheatley

Sep 16th, 2003 - 11:01 AM

Re: Re-programming HISS Ignition Keys

HI ChrisA - I don't know how to reply to your particular message thread with this new discussion board layout but I hope you understand what I am talking about?

I contacted Banner who make the Optimate range of equipment and they were very helpful and asked for my address. Said he would send an Optimate accessory connecting lead FOC to me !!

It arrived yesterday in a jiffy bag but sadly it is not the correct shape moulding or pins as the HISS key connector. The Optimate plug has round male pins and the Honda tool has flat lucar female connectors which sit is a very specific plastic moulding.

< regards > David RAF at sunny Kenley Email: david.wheatley@ra.gsi.gov.uk

Rob Elliott

Sep 2, 03 - 6:56 PM

Importing a Deauville to U.S.?

Just a big hello to everyone first off, I found your site and enjoying reading posts. It has helped me make the decision to buy a Deauville.

My only difficulty is that I will be returning to the US in a few years and will want to take it with me back. Does anyone know someone who has done this? I read through a few old posts where people discussed it, but there was no follow up for successfulness.

Any emails or contributions appreciated!

RobEmail: rob.elliott@flashmail.com

Tom Williams

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 7:26 PM

Re: Importing a Deauville to U.S.?

Hi

A couple of years with a Deauville and you'll probably want to upgrade to a Pan European, which are available in the USA.

Tom W. Email: whgcoltd@aol.com

Stu Brace

Sep 2nd, 2003 - 10:11 PM

Re: Importing a Deauville to U.S.?

I would have thought a Harley would be the thing to have in the U.S. All those straight roads and no decent twisties. ( I know that is a really broad generalisation please don't flame me)
Seriously though, I think you would get easily bored with a DV over there, probably a Pan would be more like it, and I think they sell them there too
Cheers Stu... Email: stu.brace@ntlworld.com

Rob

Sep 3rd, 2003 - 11:04 AM

Re: Importing a Deauville to U.S.?

The DV is for temp. use, and the wife really likes it. We will buy a BMW R1150RT before we leave Germany, but want a smaller bike for her to ride over here. She had troubles getting the 1150 off the sidestand. UGH. Regardless, I've contacted a few people, including DOT. I think I just need to find one person who has done it... Email: relliott@flashmail.com

David Wheatley

Sep 3rd, 2003 - 11:33 AM

Re: Importing a Deauville to U.S.?

Hi Rob - The following info lifted from the Web:

VEHICLE IMPORTATION GUIDELINES
(Imported from a country other than Canada)

The following provides information concerning the importation of a motor vehicle car built to comply with the standards of a country other than the U.S. or Canada. Importers of motor vehicles must file form HS-7 (available at ports of entry) at the time a vehicle is imported to declare whether the vehicle complies with DOT requirements. As a general rule, a motor vehicle less than 25 years old must comply with all applicable Federal motor vehicle safety standards (FMVSS) to be imported permanently. Vehicles manufactured to meet the FMVSS will have a certification label affixed by the original manufacturer in the area of the driver-side door. To make importation easier, when purchasing a vehicle certified to the U.S. standards abroad, a buyer should have the sales contract verify that the label is attacheds and present this document at time of importation.

A vehicle without this certification label must be imported as a non-conforming vehicle. In this case, the importer must contract with a DOT-Registered Importer (RI) and post a DOT bond for one and a half times the vehicle's dutiable value. This bond is in addition to the normal Customs entry bond. Copies of the DOT bond and the contract with an RI must be attached to the HS-7 form.

Under the contract, the RI will modify and certify that the vehicle conforms with all applicable FMVSS. Before an RI can modify a vehicle NHTSA must have determined that the vehicle is capable of being modified to comply with the FMVSS. If no determination has been made, the RI must petition NHTSA to determine whether the vehicle is capable of being modified to comply with the FMVSS. If the petitioned vehicle is not similar to one sold in the U.S., this process becomes very complex and costly. A list of vehicles previously determined eligible for importation may be obtained from an RI or from the NHTSA web site.

Since the cost of modifying a non-conforming vehicle, or the time required to bring it into conformance, may affect the decision to purchase a vehicle abroad, it is recommended that you discuss these aspects with an RI before buying and shipping a vehicle to the U.S.

For federal regulations concerning vehicle emissions contact the Environmental Protection Agency, Manufacturers Operations Division, EN-340, 401 M Street SW, Washington, DC 20460, Tel 202) 564-9660. Information concerning duty or other Customs matters can be obtained from the Classification and Value Division, U.S. Customs Service, Washington, DC 20229, Tel 202) 927-0300, or http://www.customs.ustreas.gov/travel/auto.htm

For information regarding registration or operation of a properly imported vehicle in a specific state, we advise you to contact the Department of Motor Vehicles or other appropriate agency in that state since the requirements vary by state.

TEMPORARY IMPORTATIONS

As a general rule all motor vehicles imported into the United States that are less than 25 years old must comply with all applicable Federal motor vehicle safety standards (FMVSS), or be brought into compliance with the FMVSS by a Registered Importer. The following temporary importations are exempt from this requirement and do not have to be modified to conform to the FMVSS. A form HS-7 (available at ports of entry) must be completed.

I hope this helps?

< regards > David Wheatley at sunny RAF Kenley
< david.wheatley@ra.gsi.gov.uk > Email: 100557.2225@compuserve.com

Rob

Sep 4th, 2003 - 4:38 PM

Re: Importing a Deauville to U.S.?

I guess there's not much to do, especially after reading the part about "one and a half the vehicles value" part. The RI's who modify vehicles probably make a killing because they won't even let you take it off the dock until it's done and all the work has to be performed there. PIA.

I think I'll settle for a US spec Yamaha Vstar 650. It'll make the wife happy, but not me. I guess someone looses and I will get the R1150RT before I leave. Anyway, guys thanks for the info, I still love the bike and hope that you continue to enjoy yours! Email: relliott@flashmail.com

Dave Robinson

Sep 5, 03 - 5:14 AM

Side stand

First up - great site & hard work appreciated!
I think my side stand microswitch is U/S - should the bike start with stand down and clutch in or was I dreaming that it never used to
Cheers
Robbo Email: robbo_dave@yahoo.co.uk

keith

Sep 5th, 2003 - 6:45 PM

Re: Side stand

depends if its in gear,if in nutral then yes it will start, if in gear then it should not , most micro switches fail in the open position, which would mean that the bike should not turn over at all Email: keithdouglaslewis@hotmail.com

Fat Bloater

Sep 8, 03 - 3:51 PM

Starting

Has anyone encountered starting problems with their Deauville? Twice recently, once after a good cleaning( using powerwasher) and secondly after a 15 mile ride, in almost monsoon conditions, I have had what appears to be the Battery drained almost completely or the bike just starting but not with any great gusto!
Could it be that there is some weak area where moisture, i.e, rain, gets in and somehow is draining the battery?
This last week was the first time I have come across this since getting the bike new in 2001.
Perhaps it's just a coincidence me getting the thing soaked twice in 3 days.
Cheers in anticipation,
Fat Bloater Email: Topfitter@msn.com

murray

Sep 8th, 2003 - 6:35 PM

Re: Starting

Generally speaking it's not a good idea to clean bikes with a powerwasher. There are too many areas which are vulnerable to water getting in and causing problems/damage; it's designed for normal rain/splash/hose/sponge, but not high pressure jets.
Most common problem areas are wheel bearings, swing-arm bearings, brake calipers, switchgear (including sidestands etc), general electrical equipment (connectors, regulators, relays etc etc), getting into lighting, ignition HT parts (coils, leads, plug caps).
Re your probs, I'd guess your hunch is right; if the battery holds up normally, then the drenching might be the culprit. Email: murray.betts@ntlworld.com

Tom Williams

Sep 8th, 2003 - 6:36 PM

Re: Starting

Hi

So far I've never had any problems, even in torrential rain. One thing I am certain of though, never use any kind of power washer on a motorcycle,they force water and detergent into places never envisaged by the designer. Be careful with a standard garden hose, avoid electrics, dashpanels, brake components and bearings. Obviously in winter you need rinse off road salt. Email: whgcoltd@aol.com

Tom

Sep 5, 03 - 7:57 AM

End of the Deauville as we know it?

In the Sept. issue of Motorcycle Sport & Leisure:
"...According to industry rumours, Honda is set to launch a touring version of the 600cc Hornet The bike is likely to come with panniers and enclosed bodywork."
Now there's a thought!

steve

Sep 5th, 2003 - 8:32 PM